Saying goodbye, a long journey and a sinking feeling.
First there was the excitement of leaving - getting
everything ready and checking the pilotage for the arrival but then the
problems started creeping in. The rain did not stop for 3 days including when
we went to fill up with diesel meaning we had a boat full of wet dog towels,
soggy cockpit cushions, even my shoes squelched as I walked and the internet
had gone, no Wi-Fi means no up to date weather forecast so we were as ready as
we could be but not as ready as we would like. The morning to leave dawned full
of the promise of sunshine but actually full of rain. With an already damp boat
and not particularly good visibility the prospect of a very long, miserable
slog loomed in front of us. Cue long discussion, poring over the weather (now
obtained) and various options were under consideration. Finally a plan was
hatched for a 24 hour postponement.

Laredo
itself is stunning. We spent the weekend exploring, walking along the beach, around
the oldest parts of the town and through the tunnel carved out of the headland
in the 1800’s to the ancient fishing port. We also found pizza to continue the
birthday celebrations. On the Monday morning it was time to get to work, we
left Mark in peace to fix the engine, taking school books to the nearby park
and by lunchtime the engine and leak were sorted.
Ingredients for Fabada |
The added complication was the middle deck hands 9th
birthday as this would now mean travelling on his birthday so lots of re-jigging
was required.
Step 1 – birthday meal and cake, not practical on the move
and he also has a tendency to sea sickness.
Step 2 – walking the dog.
Step 3 – there was no bread for lunch or if we ate the milk
rolls planned for lunch then there would be no lunch tomorrow whilst travelling.
Step 4 – we would need to tell the marina staff.
Step 5 – our shore side emergency overdue times would need
to be changed (we have an EPIRB but always let someone know when we are moving
and when we would be expected at the next destination).
We took the dog out for a walk via the supermarket to solve
two problems at once, the marina staff had already been down for a chat so that
was sorted. A couple of texts sorted out our emergency back up. We spent the
afternoon cooking and enjoyed a big birthday tea of Fabada (Asturian bean and
sausage stew) and birthday cake as requested.
Finally the Friday was a lovely morning, birthday presents
were unwrapped, we were all set and we went up to the office to say good bye. We
also managed to see many others from the marina and were given a nice home
brewed bottle of ‘something warming’ which was a lovely gesture. We were all a
bit sad to be going but glad to finally be on the move again. There was lots of
waving and shouts of ‘adios’ as we left the marina.
The sun was beautiful, the sea sparkling and blue, the views
lovely and the motion was unpleasant. Within a short while the birthday boy was
curled up in the cockpit not having such a good day. We watched Gijon disappearing behind
us, seeing landmarks we had grown familiar with over the last few months from a
different perspective and taking lots of photos.
The wind was pretty much as forecast, weak and on the nose,
so it was motoring time. This time though we had both Casper II and the new seat
position making things easier and more comfortable. Casper (as in the friendly ghost) is the
autopilot, often it is referred to on boats as ‘George’ but we thought that
might cause some confusion. Casper II is that most common of upgrades on
Tarquilla, that is from a more modern and shiny version that does not work to
an older one that does he is therefore often also referred to as ‘Casper ’s Grandad’. His
job is to keep the boat on a set bearing and trying to get him working has been
an ongoing challenge since we left Topsham. With it you can let go of the wheel
without the boat going off course which makes things like eating, swapping the
helm or using binoculars a bit more simple. The hours wore on with the birthday
boy sleeping in the cockpit and feeling very ill and with the basket of snacks
being reduced rapidly by the other two. Finally the sun started to set and it
was time to move to night watches.
We both have a lot of experience of night shifts from
previous jobs and find the best thing for us is to do 2 hour shifts overnight,
sleeping on a makeshift bed in the cockpit when off watch in case an extra pair
of eyes or some other help is needed, which it often is, meaning that it is
rarely an uninterrupted sleep. The (other two) children slept well, curled up
on the settee after watching a DVD. It was a very clear, starry night. Just off
of Santander is
a main route for shipping giving us a view of passing ships lit up and
travelling across the horizon in a long line in the inky black for several
hours of the night. The moon came up about 4 in the morning and hung low in the
sky glowing orange. The light changed, the sun came up and we were treated to a
lovely sunrise to start the new day.
It was a long trip but finally several hours after breakfast
the marina break water was in sight, we were nearly there. Mark popped down
below for something and called back up that there was water coming in. That is
not something you want to hear on a boat. There was no sign of where it was
coming in or how fast, just a bilge (sort of under the floor boards) full of
water, water that should have been on the outside of the boat not the inside.
The boys were brilliant and all the safety training kicked in as they put on
lifejackets, packed the last few essentials into the grab bag and helped to
empty buckets of water out the side. Mark worked to track the cause and pinned
it down to an engine. With the engine off the water level started to drop, the
bilge pump was doing its job and we were getting closer to the marina. There
was no answer on the radio to our requests for help from the marina staff to
help us in so it was all hands on deck to get our beast into a finger pontoon
without the full control of both engines and with a small audience on the wave
break. We slid in on the second attempt when Mark risked running the second
engine briefly for more control and got the ropes on, now it was time to sort
out the mess!
After lots of mopping, a rusted jubilee clip was the chief
suspect, turning on the engine proved the point with a spray of sea water, good
news in that it would be an easy fix, good news that it had happened where it
did and good news that the problem was spotted before it became any worse. As
long as the engine was off, the leak would not continue so after lots of
clearing up there was nothing more to be done until everything opened again on
the Monday.
We set off for the next stop with a day which couldn’t decide
if it would be sunny or wet but there was a nice gentle sea. A few miles down
the coast we reached Castro Urdiales which we had thought about stopping at for
lunch but as it had large black clouds looming over it we just popped our noses
into the bay for a look at the castle and large church on the shore then
carried on to Bilbao, a nice short hop taking us into the start of Basque
country.
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