Flavours of Biscay.
How can anyone govern
a nation that has two hundred and forty-six different kinds of cheese? Charles
de Gaulle
Obviously Charles de Gaulle was referring to the political
differences between all the regions but as the quote demonstrates there are a
few different types of cheese in France and we’ve enjoyed trying as
many as possible. In the French Basque region there was a cheese with a layer
of carbon through it’s centre only made in a few mountain villages, it was
fantastic melted on bread (as recommended by the lady on the market stall). Chaource
is a soft cheese similar to camembert. There have been many strong blue
cheeses, comte which is also delicious grated and a runny one in a pot called St
Felicien Du Dauphine. We’ve tried goats and sheep cheeses, we’ve enjoyed
artisan and familiar types and all have our own favourites.
One of the many cheeses we have tried and enjoyed |
As we travelled through the Basque country we discovered the
cultural importance of peppers. With enormous peppers of interesting shapes in
shades of red and green in sauces, stews, pour on sauce, dried, pickled,
hanging from balconies in fact you name it, it had peppers on or in! There were
many tasty dishes including a chicken in pepper sauce and a Basque lamb
stew. We also stocked up on some lovely red pepper Basquaise sauce which we
have used with many things.
Seafood is, not surprisingly, something we come across quite
frequently. You may have noticed us mention mussels on several occasions. When
visiting fishing ports during the summer months, freshly caught sardines are
often found grilling beside the harbour wafting their perfumed smoke around. In
other areas it is the shellfish which rule. Oysters are often considered in Britain to be a
food for the rich, a demonstration on the dinner table of wealth. In many areas
however, they are the poor mans option, sold in all the local markets around
the areas where oyster farming is all important and dominates large areas of
seabed. From the days of the cave man they were the basic protein part of the
diet in coastal areas and obviously required a lot less energy to hunt than a
mammoth or wale. We’ve enjoyed trying oysters in different places and they do
vary in size, shape and taste, with a squeeze of lemon or a drop of Tabasco they slide down
in salty deliciousness. Then there are the prawns and langoustines, big
beasties and very tasty.
home made paella |
Coming up the west coast of France
we stopped in the Gironde region which is famed
for its wines. The Bordeaux
wines, of which there are 6 families, many appellations and many more types are
very much a part of the area. We enjoyed sampling some of the local
specialities and also the sunshine which makes them special. Further up in the
Charente Maritime region we were recommended to try a wine fortified with
cognac called Pineau des Charentes which is often enjoyed as an aperitif, it
was lovely.
Medoc wine from the Gironde |
Pineau de Charentes from La Rochelle |
Although Churros are a Spanish treat (traditionally eaten
with a hot chocolate for dipping) many towns on the Atlantic coast of France
sell these sticks of delight freshly cooked to order with a tub of Nutella. I
may have mentioned them before mainly because they are so delicious. A cross
between a pancake and a doughnut they are crunchy on the outside and fluffy
inside, definitely one of my favourite treats.
Another unusual meal was steak tartare. Ordered by the
middle deck hand at a restaurant in Le
Mans , it was prepared in front of him at the table.
I’m not sure which he enjoyed the most, the meal or the theatricality of its
construction.
The skipper enjoys finding and trying out local and
traditional recipes. Kig ar farz (literally meat and stuffing) is a traditional
Breton recipe which used to be prepared by peasants and left to simmer over the
fire whilst they worked the fields. The dumpling is made using buckwheat and is
cooked over the stew in a muslin bag. This has now been added to his repertoire
of successful dishes.
oysters, sausage, bread and lemons from the market washed down with local cider |
Seaweed pate, cured and smoked sausages (with herbs, with
garlic, kangaroo, rabbit, mushroom and various others) fish soup,
snails and pastries have all been tried by the crew. They are very good at
trying new things and we all love going to the markets. Mixed in with old
favourites and a lot of basics we are loving trying regional flavours. Salud.
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All the way through
this journey we’ve enjoyed trying different foods.
Similar blogs can be found via these links.
http://themonkeysfist.blogspot.com/2013/06/eat-to-sail-sail-to-eat.html
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