Wind, boats, sardines and high kicks & here be dragons
Wind, boats, sardines
and high kicks.
The wind was howling not only through our rigging but also
everyone else’s making for a fair bit of noise in the marina and we were all
getting a bit frustrated with the weather, having thought that summer had
finally arrived, to find ourselves sheltering from the rain and stuck in harbour
for a week. We shared the visitors’ pontoon with several other boats from Malta , the Netherlands ,
Germany and France . We also
met a couple of Australians who live locally and a British couple stopped off
at the pontoon briefly having been anchored out in the bay.
Getxo looking wet
|
In between rain storms on various days we had a nice walk
out to another river which was pleasant, went to a park, admired the waves and
visiting cruise ships and found out more about the local history, geography and
buildings. Waiting also gave us the chance to spend some time on jobs around
the boat, school work and a couple of projects we have underway. Looking
through old photos for some children’s books we are working on was strange but
it was good to see so many familiar faces of friends and family and relive old
adventures.
Along the river
|
We had tried unsuccessfully twice before to visit the Euskal
museoa (Basque museum) in Bilbao and decided to try
again. It was a fantastic museum packed with information and all laid out in
the cloisters of the oldest church in Bilbao .
There was a special exhibition on regional dance with some really clever video
projections of people dancing – including sword dances, lots of leaping and the
Fandango! We were also able to go inside the church itself (the iglesia de los
Santos Juanes) the interior is stunning and houses an incredible alter piece dedicated
to the sacred heart, the only one of its kind in the world.
The atmosphere in the city that day was peculiar, in
addition to the steadily falling rain there was a kind of tension due to the 30th
March general strike, which we had not been aware of. We try to keep up with
the news, watching and decoding the headlines as they go (more interesting ones
for people who like to look at the roots of words – terremoto = earthquake
for instance) but had missed this one. Nearly all the shops and small
businesses were closed, people were walking around with flags and banners and
there were posters everywhere. Police vans were waiting discreetly at various
points and there were a number of security guards outside open shops. Most of
the cash points where we were had been made unusable with realistic looking stickers
covering the screens saying ‘system error.’ The metro was also affected running
a reduced service so each train was packed like a sardine tin. Feelings about
the financial situation are obviously and understandably running high
particularly in the Basque region where the politics of independence are
entangled with economic policy.
The start of June brought the lifeguards out but not the
sunbathers, leaving them perched on their chairs overlooking an empty beach and
wrapped up in their bright red tracksuits. The Guardia popped by for a chat one
afternoon (negative sticky buns) and once again checked all our documents, as
with every other visit from them and the customs they were polite and cheerful,
filled out their forms and off they went.
Looking down on the old harbour
|
We enjoyed the spectacle of the old harbour celebrations at
the weekend where a number of traditional fishing boats were sailed in and out
of the old harbour to the smell of barbequing sardines and the sound of
traditional Basque music – pipes and drums. Most of the sailors were also
dressed in traditional costumes of smocks and beret and it made for a colourful
sight. There was also a rally of Seat 600 cars which came along the road with
horns tooting much to the excitement of the boys, they then all parked along
the seafront waiting to be admired whilst their owners went off for a get
together.
Finally the weather turned with the wind dropping, swell
reducing and the sun making an appearance. We tidied up all our loose ends, got
the boat ready for the next move then took the boys to the beach for a couple
of hours, next stop hopefully Bermeo.
Here be dragons.
With beautiful weather (as predicted) we set off from Getxo
and headed down through the harbour, we got into the bay of Biscay, lined up
the wind turbines behind us and set off along the coast. This was going to be a
nice morning wander down the coast just 20 miles to Bermeo with some interesting
sights on the way, or at least so we thought!
We passed the island
of Gaztelugatxe , an icon
of the Pais de Vasco region, where there
is a causeway with 200 (ish - numbers vary according to the counter) steps
connecting the island to the mainland and sat on top is a tiny hermitage. I’m
told this is the most photographed view in the Basque region, it was certainly
impressive. The next sight was the off shore gas rig which we passed with the
boys excitedly getting out their ‘how things work’ book to look up energy
production having seen wind turbines, a nuclear station and gas rig all within
a couple of hours of each other.
offshore gas rig
|
We reached Bermeo and headed on into the harbour, once there
we looked in horror at the wall for visitors – it had long ropes stretching out
to the big fishing boats moored in the centre of the harbour, reaching the wall
would mean going over and through the ropes with a chance of fouling the
propeller or rudders. There was a gentleman stood on the quay who waved at us
and pointed to the space on the wall, gesticulating wildly that that was where
we should moor. Feeling we had no other option we waved politely back, did one
of our ‘spin on the spot’ turns and reluctantly headed back out to sea.
The next option was Lequeitio where we had hoped to anchor.
The pilot book showed a good size anchorage so off we went. As we neared the
harbour the first bit of excitement was getting our line right around the
outlying island to avoid rocks then heading towards the sheltered bay missing the
underwater rocks in the middle, which are marked by what looks like a rook from
a giant chess set. As we got closer to it we spotted what looked like rubbish
in the water which as we got closer still turned out to be a diver who
cheerfully waved at us then moved out of the main channel. The anchorage was
much tighter than it looked on all the plans and very uninviting as we knew it
was surrounded by rocks. We headed past all the fishing lines into the inner
harbour to see if there was space up against the wall only to find it was full
of fishing boats so it was another turn on the spot and off we headed again.
no room at the inn
|
At this point our paper charts ran out. We had been unable
to get any at the last couple of stops, thought we’d be able to get them at
Bermeo and although we have electronic navigation (like that used on the big
ships) and pilot books for the harbours we like to have a paper back up but as
we headed East from Loquieto we may as well have had a large piece of paper on
the chart table with the words ‘here be dragons’ written across it. The next
possible harbour was Zumaia and as this was a marina it was likely to be able
to accommodate us but as they had an office, just to be sure Mark gave them a
quick ring in lamentable Spanglish. As this stop was up a river some tidal
calculations were needed to make sure there would be enough water for us to get
to the marina. We threaded our way through a fleet of small local fishing boats
and dodged the larger and faster boats heading to the nearby commercial fishing
port.
We spotted the entrance with some difficulty and headed
towards it, it was a tight turn into the river entrance and the tide was
against us, with a bit of extra oomph to the engines it was safely in and up
then just a case of following the river to the marina entrance. The next
challenge was finding that a dredger was moored right across the marina
entrance which we squeezed past with a bit of a wiggle then were very relieved
to see spaces on the visitors pontoon straight in front of us. A bit of
fighting the currents and into the finger pontoon we slid, glad to finally get
the ropes on 10 hours after we set off for our short hop.
Comments
Post a Comment